Walla Walla is highly regarded for its sweet onions, wine and food, and for being a top-tier cycling destination.
Although I’ve lived in the Pacific Northwest since 1994, I’m embarrassed to admit I rarely venture east of the Cascade Crest. Given the great cycling in the places I’ve lived during that time–Bellingham, Eugene, and Seattle–I’ve been lazy about exploring regional cycling destinations that require a commute.
The last weekend of October was finally the time to try something new, and my wife and I planned a weekend adventure to Walla Walla.
Saturday
The drive from Seattle is over four hours, which according to the cycling time-warp algorithm means you need to ride at least nine hours to make it worthwhile. However, with all of the optional activities Walla Walla has to offer, and the waning daylight of late October, I went into the weekend knowing there was no way we would be able to spend that much time on the bikes.
Beforehand, we were fortunate to make arrangements with a few locals who organized a small group ride and a luxurious dinner at the Marcus Whitman Hotel, where we conveniently also spent the night.
We left Seattle at 7 am and arrived at Allegro Cyclery around 11:30, with only one stop to switch drivers. The drive was scenic and uneventful except for the section of Hwy 82 between Ellensburg and Yakima where we had to take evasive action to avoid several erratic and aggressive drivers passing slow moving trucks.
At Allegro we were greeted by friendly staff who hastily brewed coffee for us while the group gathered. The ride leader was Scott Peters, who is the COO of the Columbia Rural Electric Association, a board member of Visit Walla Walla, and a de facto cycling ambassador for Walla Walla. We were joined by two other experienced cyclists, Mary and Rob Angelo from Bend.
Allegro is run by Walla Walla native Michael Austin and his wife Kathryn. They are passionate about the cycling in Walla Walla, and Allegro is the best place to stop if you need ride recommendations, or information about joining a group ride.
Scott led us on a moderate 39-mile out-and-back ride through rolling golden hills to the north, and then southeast into the wooded foothills of the Blue Mountains via Biscuit Ridge Rd. Our turnaround point was where the road turned to gravel and got quite steep–over 15% grade.
While planning for the weekend, I checked in with Alexa Volweiler, who is a ride leader with the Cascade Bicycle Club and leads multi-day rides in Walla Walla. She passed along several bits of wisdom including: “Bring lots of tubes as there are goatheads.” Her prediction was on point: I got a front flat (how often does that happen?) on Biscuit Ridge Rd. Grab a spare tube at Allegro before you start pedaling.
After the group ride, we followed Scott’s recommendation and took a quick spin down Palouse and up Catherine Streets to check out some of Walla Walla’s historic mansions, where the area’s most successful homesteaders and pioneers lived. Check out this handy walking tour guide.
Post-ride, we were excited to get to the Marcus Whitman and chill out. Although the ride was relatively short, the combination of a long drive plus the ride was more tiring than expected. Usually when you walk in to a premier establishment like the Marcus Whitman, wearing cycling kit results in sideways stares from staff, and maybe even admonishment for not adhering to a dress code. The staff at the Whitman welcomed us, sweaty lycra and all. They have a locked room to store bikes just off of the main lobby area.
The Marcus Whitman has a historic past. It was built in 1928 in honor of pioneer missionary Marcus Whitman who came to the area in the 1830s to work with the Cayuse tribe. It fell into disrepair between the 70s and 90s, but was restored and re-opened in 2001. Pictures from the past line the walls of the lobby area. There are shots of politicians including Lyndon Johnson and Robert Kennedy, and “Rifleman” star Chuck Conners.
While my wife and I took showers (the shower was more satisfying than most *new* hotels) and a pre-dinner nap, Mary and Rob visited the nearby Maison Bleue and 7 Hills wine tasting rooms. I counted at least 8 wine tasting rooms within a couple blocks of the hotel. Walla Walla makes it easy to drink and *not* drive.
Dinner was at the “Chef’s Table,” which is a booth adjacent to the kitchen, where you can experience a gourmet restaurant in action. Each of the six courses was introduced by restaurant manager Dan McCaffrey, the executive chef, or other staff. Dan is also a sommelier, and selected local wines paired for each course. After dinner, one of the staff took us on a “back stage tour” to show where he sprouts the baby greens served with some of the dishes.
Sunday
We got numerous recommendations for breakfast, but went with Scott’s suggestion of Bacon and Eggs. We got there just as it opened at 8AM, and there was a line when we left, which is an indicator that it’s popular with the locals.
The morning air was crisp, so we wandered around downtown and procrastinated while we waited for the temperature to warm. Sunday’s ride was just my wife and me, and I cobbled together a ride to the west based on a route provided by Alexa:
Unfortunately the fog stayed dense, and the temps stayed chilly the entire ride. We hunkered down and pedaled out the miles. This particular route was at the easy end of the spectrum, and passed several wineries and the Whitman Mission National Historic Site along Old Hwy 12. We did it in a clockwise direction, but if you did it in a counterclockwise direction it would make a nice little tour that (almost) finishes with a stop at the historic site and a winery.
After the ride we stopped at the Colville Street Patisserie: They serve coffee from Walla Walla Roastery, and are known for their homemade gelato and tarts.
On the return trip to Seattle, we split up the drive with a taco truck stop in Yakima. A stop for Mexican food should be a requirement whenever passing through Yakima.
A 2-day weekend in Walla Walla is barely long enough to be an introduction to the area. If you haven’t been, I’d recommend scheduling 3 or 4 days so you have plenty of time to ride and enjoy the food and beverage options.
Resources:
Cycling Maps
Walla Walla Valley
Walla Walla city routes
Restaurants
Brasserie Four: Classic French fare & pizza
The Green Lantern: Lots of taps and a sports setting
Olive Marketplace and Café: casual setting; a popular a post-ride hangout that serves good food.
Ox & Cart: Farm to table restaurant specializing in steaks.
Passatempo: Specializing in pasta fatta a mano (“pasta made by hand”)
Walla Walla Roastery: Located near the airport wineries
Live Music
Plumb Cellars: Live music Friday and Saturday nights. The wine slushies are recommended, the music is always local, and always good. Where the locals hang out.
Wineries
There are over 120 wineries in the area. Here are a few recommendations from cyclists:
College Cellars: Good value
Cougar Crest: At the intersection of Old Hwy 12 and Frenchtown Rd on the ride we did on Sunday
Dusted Valley
Five Star Cellars
Forgeron Cellars
L’Ecole
Mark Ryan Winery
Tamarack Cellars
Watermill Winery: Also has really good hard cider
Zerba Cellars
Walla Walla winery map
Bend Bulletin story about Cycling in Wine Country
NY Times story about Walla Walla Food and Wines
Suggested routes for 2 days in Walla Walla
Flat terrain and paved trails in Walla Walla’s neighborhoods and farmlands are perfect for easy rides. To the south, the Blue Mountains offer more challenging terrain.
Day 1:
Easy: South Side Winery Loop
Moderate: Biscuit Ridge Rd.
Challenging: Walla Walla-Waitsburg Loop
Day 2:
Easy: Umapine Loop
Moderate: Batman Loop: This route passes by the home of Adam West who grew up in Walla Walla.
Challenging: Prescott Loop
Housing and dinner were provided by the Marcus Whitman Hotel and Visit Walla Walla.
